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Monthly Archives: June 2014

Coming down to the wire!

As the season nears its close one thing is abundantly clear. In 2014 the IFSC World Cup remains wide open with two men and three women having a realistic chance at taking their respective overall titles.

In the men’s series it has proven to be a battle between the maturing Jan Hojer and the 3 time champion of the World Dmitrii Sharafutdinov.



Coming off his debut win last year Jan had the perfect start to the season picking up victory in Chongqing and maintaining a finals presence all the way to Innsbruck trading victories with Dmitrii. In Innsbruck the first chink in his armor appeared with a 10th place but Dmitrii failed to capitalize with his worst result of the season to that point, finishing 4th.

Jan rebounded in Canada with a strong 2nd place finish (important as Dmitrii skipped the round due to the difficulties he faced securing a Visa) but again at the GoPro Mountain Games in Vail he missed out on finals, a telling blow this time with Dmitrii taking his second victory of the season after Baku.

Now, going into the final two events Dmitrii is on just behind Jan in the overall with Jan on 437 and Dmitrii on 415. Of course Dmitrii doesn’t have to drop his worst result which puts him ahead by 12 points once Jan drops Innsbruck. So with 200 points still on offer its super close!

In the women’s overall its much the same with Britain’s Shauna Coxsey holding a slender lead over Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi and Austria’s Anna Stöhr still in the running as an outside chance (who would’ve thought we’d be saying that after last years stellar season!)




Matched on two wins apiece Shauna narrowly leads Akiyo by 11 points in the current standings but again once you drop their worst results, a 5th for Shauna at Vail and a 4th for Akiyo you’re left with a 15 point difference, Shauna still just ahead of Akiyo with 425 over 410…

With Anna on an adjusted 386 she is 39 points behind Shauna. This means if she was to win the last two events she would take the overall by 1 point, even if Shauna were to finish 2nd in both. So in the women’s, especially considering the strengths of the 3 athletes in question it really is too close to call!

Please provide you guesses for the final men’s and women’s standings (with points) on The Circuit Facebook link to this post. The closest to the final season result wins a copy of the magazine. *Entries close Thursday the 19th of June


That restless state of being

Life for me at the moment is traveling. Traveling and that inherent uncertainty that comes with being self-employed.

I get asked if I travel well and I guess the answer is yes. Yes in that I am resilient and hard to stress out. I also have a generally open chatty demeanor which quite often gets me onside with people whose job it is to make life inconvenient (maybe not on purpose but through their actions.)

Of course it’s not always that easy and in some ways I’m a terrible traveler. My grasp of foreign languages is fleeting and frustrating which can get to me when things aren’t working out. That coupled with my near total inability to sleep on public transport can lead to a red eyed grumpy, solution based version of me (which is a bad thing as my decision making suffers with fatigue.)

But on the whole it’s not the lack of sleep or the frustration of communication that is the hardest part about traveling, it’s saying goodbye.


I am immensely lucky that people appreciate my photography and writing enough to want me around documenting the IFSC World Cups and outdoor climbing. My passion and commitment have taken me to where my climbing ability never could and I get to travel the World with the best climbers on the planet. However at the end of every trip comes the goodbyes, those fleeting conversations that happen while you try to allay the sadness of leaving through handshakes and hugs, convincing yourself as much as anyone else that you will see each other again soon to rekindle the friendships formed while on the road.



Everyone knows that although they will probably meet again there are always uncertainties. Everyone beneath the top dozen or so athletes is faced with the reality that if they don’t perform the opportunity to represent their country could disappear. The next hot young climber is always waiting to take their place in the traveling elite.

For some climbers the motivation goes and they fade from the competition circuit to focus on outdoor objectives. This year several strong competitors are transitioning from competition to rock and you know the goodbyes from them will last that little bit longer.


Then of course there is my situation. I gave up the security of a full time job for this life, I rented out my room and car and hit the road. It is a wonderful existence but it comes at a cost. Over the coming weeks I will engage with prospective advertisers for issue 2 and if I don’t generate enough interest it will be me saying goodbye for a while and working on issue 2 from the other end of the world while holding down a day job to make ends meet.

When you’re traveling you get used to goodbyes, that sadness that comes with them is a sign that the people you meet add value to your life and it makes every goodbye worth it. If you didn’t travel you wouldn’t face the goodbyes but you wouldn’t share the fun and excitement of living with such a diverse and wonderful bunch of people. That said, I still hate goodbyes!


Not everyone is designed to travel but everyone should try it. You may sleep through every flight like a baby, you may gain proficiency in every language that you come across, and you may get frustrated and angry when things invariably don’t work out. However you will learn to say goodbye and through that you will realise the world is full of special people. If you never leave home again travel is worth it just for that realization.

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